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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
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| Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes |
Click here for Google Map and mystarting point today
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| 30 minutes after leaving Rabanal as the sun is about to rise over the horizon |
I left Rabanal del Camino at about 7am after saying farewell to Terry. I had a reasonable night's sleep so I felt ready for the hike ahead over two peaks today.
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| Me at the cross |
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| Not me at the cross |
The walking surface from Rabanal to Molinseca is very rough and extremely hard on your feet. This stretch also includes two peaks with difficult ascents and descents.
I had set off without breakfast, as usual, and did not stop until I reached Acebo. It is a beautifully restored old town with much work under way and all of it in the sympathy with the rest of the old stone buildings. Karin was just leaving as I arrived and we spoke briefly. Each time I meet her I think it will be the last and yet we always seem to catch up every couple of days. I sat at one of the few free tables here and was joined by Arthur from Melbourne who I met yesterday. He introduced me to Anne, also from Melbourne. I used this stop to attend to my feet, drying them off, checking blisters, reapplying Vaseline and putting on fresh liner socks.
After Acebo I came to Riego de Ambros and clearly these two towns are preparing for a major upturn in the economy. This second town is also in the middle of a major face lift. Many of the old building are being restored to their former beauty and there are other significant new developments but all in the style of the old town. Really beautiful.
Molinaseca:
By the time I reached Molinaseca I was ready for some refreshing food. I picked out Meson Puente Romano not just because it looked great from the bridge as I crossed over the rio Maruelo but because the tables were laid out in close proximity and with easy access to shallow part of the river. to the water with easy access style of the old stone buildings over .
I took a table beside the stone wall separating the restaurant from the riverside. After ordering a mixed salad I took off my boots and socks and strolled over the cool grass and into the shallow waters of rio Maruelo. I could have stayed there for hours but my food was coming so made my way back to the table. Meanwhile my damp socks were soaking up the warmth of the stone wall and hopefully drying out. The salad was enormous and had just about everything in it including a very generous amount of tuna. I was taking this opportunity to capture some images of the river and the beautiful stone bridge. I also updated my notes. This was such a relaxing spot, good food, cool waters, socks drying out, feet resting, BLISS : )
First time to meet Julie and Lilly:
There were two people at the next table, they were having a great laugh. I had often seen them on the road over the last few weeks and they were always in such good spirits and seemed to get along so well. Mother and daughter I thought. They were taking photos of each other so I offered to take one of them together. Julie (Mum) and Lilly (daughter) are from Melbourne. We spoke briefly but I was to meet with them again, many times, and I always enjoyed their company. I will post my photos of them in some of the later posts.
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| Castillo de los Templarios |
Ponferrada:I followed my guide book all the way into Ponferrada. Now, maybe I got it wrong and if did so did many others but I ended up taking a very circuitous route into the town and not going anywhere near the Albergue I intended staying in. It was a scorching hot day and after a long day walking over some of the roughest terrain to date I did not need to find myself considering a backward move to the Muni. 'Never go back' I reminded myself so I made my way past the magnificent Castillo de los Templarios and into Plaza del Ayuntamiento where I picked out the Aroi Bierzo Plaza Hotel the central plaza as my preferred place to lay my head tonight. I just hoped they had a room. Going into reception I saw that Julie and Lilly had also decided they too deserved a bit of spoiling and were just finalising their registration. I secured the last room. The room was by far the best so far with a great little balcony just crying out to have some, just washed, pilgrim attire dangling in the sun. In fact by closing the door to the balcony I was able to create a small hothouse very conducive to drying pilgrim clothes : )
I sent a text to Ger and found they were having something to eat close by. They had just finished their meal but stayed for an extra pint while I ate my dinner. They had found the Muni, I had intended sleeping in, without any bother so I must have had sunstroke when I went all over the place earlier? Later, Ed and I went back into the Plaza across from where I was staying so we could have a nightcap. We were joined by Julie and Lilly. Ed then left to avoid a lockout situation. I chatted with the ladies. Julie is on her fourth Camino. She is doing it this time because Lilly had asked her for her company on this occasion. I said I would not be doing another Camino much as I enjoyed it. Julie asked me if one of my children asked my to join them would I not reconsider. At the time I said I would probably join them at Sarria and finish the walk with them but not the whole thing again. (Since arriving hope I have often thought about this response and now I am not sure what I would do. It would be a great privilege and a wonderful experience to walk with any of my children so maybe, just maybe, I would walk the full journey with them.)
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Images of Rabanal del Camino on the internet
Wikipedia on Rabanal del Camino
Molinseca:
Images of Molinseca on the internet
Wikipedia on Molinseca
Ponferrada:
Images of Ponferrada on the internet
Wikipedia on Ponferrada
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Topic: Graffiti and street art
I know graffiti and street art can arouse mixed emotions from the general public but I love it when it's done well, in the appropriate places and does not incite hatred or any other dangerous message. Maybe that's a bit like agreeing with it while sitting on the fence. I don't recall seeing any of the negative stuff but there were some great examples by individuals just making their mark and some amazing murals in towns and villages. I captured just a few of these during my walk across northern Spain. If I do go back on the Camino I will dedicate a large section of my blog to this art form.
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