10. Santo Domingo to Belorado

Camino Frances - Day 11 - September 6th. 2013: Santo Domingo to Belorado (10th day walking)
Contour Map: Copyright John Brierley click here to see notes










Click here for Google Maps and my starting point today
Last night, like every other night spent in the Albergues, included much snoring and having just managed to get off to sleep in the early hours of the morning I was again brought out of my slumber at 3am to a predawn chorus courtesy of the snoring herd. At 6am I gave up on any prospect of getting sleep because the early 'birds' were already well on their way and some not being too quiet about their departure.
Some pilgrims amused themselves by plucking out some of the sunflower seeds from the flowers
























I left the Albergue and set off for Grañón where I had breakfast before setting off again to walk the remaining 16KMs, without stopping, to Belorado. I checked into the Albergue Cuarto Cantones.


There are fabulous murals all over the town and the photos I took of them can be seen on my Flickr page. 

The room I had in the Albergue was really comfortable, except for the bed, (see topic below) It was here I first met three fantastic ladies who were travelling together. Jo is from Ontario in Canada while sisters Mary and Kathy are from Dundalk in Ireland. We came across each other so often after this first meeting  and it was always a great pleasure to catch up with them. Later we were joined by Ed, from Mayo in Ireland, who was clearly carrying a number of  injuries but putting a very brave face on it. He works in the IT industry.   
Jo, Mary and Kathy : )
They all went out to the pool area out back where I joined them for a short while. They were chatting with some of the guys I met yesterday, Jim, Bob and Ger. It was way too hot for me so I left to take some photos before returning to the room to update my notes.

This is where I first started to notice a pattern about the beds I had been sleeping in over the last few days. It was tilted to the outside which made me feel like I was going to roll out onto the floor (See topic below)... 

I went to dinner in the Albergue and sat with Bob, Jim, Ger and and a couple from Missouri, Peggy and Scott. I know I said this blog is not a Camino guide but I have to mention this Albergue. It is family run and one of the daughters seems to be very much to the fore in running the place. This beautiful young woman not only books you in on arrival, takes you to your room but also assumes the role of maitre d'hotel (or is that maitre d'albergue? ) in the restaurant. The pilgrim meal in this Albergue was by far the best I had over the entire trip.

I went outside the Albergue after dinner to make a few pone calls. After speaking with Brenda I called my dad who is 89 years old. He was due to head off to Lourdes the following morning. He told me that he had just received the results of the autopsy on my brother Tom. Naturally he was upset as he informed me that Tom had a massive heart attach and would have died instantly. It took five months for the details to be published. I went for a short walk to absorb this news which was not a surprise but nevertheless it did bring back the sadness of the situation and his loss to everyone. I could not stray too far because the Albergue would be locked up soon. 

Back in the room the ladies informed me that they leave every morning at 5am meaning they would be up at about 4:30am. They explained that they walk slower that many others so started out early every morning to get to their destination before the scorching heat of the mid afternoon.  Ed said he would also be leaving early.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow 

Santo Domingo de Calzada:
Images of Santo Domingo de Calzada on the internet
Wikipedia on Santo Domingo de Calzada
Belorado:
Images of Belorado on the internet
Wikipedia on Belorado - This is Spanish version, use the 'Translate' button for your language.
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Topic: Camino Syndrome
While walking the Camino I had many experiences but at least one remained unexplained. Another unexplained condition occurred when I went to bed. These I now classify as Camino Syndrome.

The sloping bed symptoms:
Within a couple of days of starting the Camino I noticed the beds I was being allocated seemed  to slope away from the wall. I constantly felt that I was going to roll out of the bed and onto the floor. The incline was very slight yet it was enough to reinforce the irrational feeling that I was slipping out of bed. This was just another problem, on top of the snoring herds, contributing to my sleepless nights. It was in Belorado that I first gave some consideration to the possibility that I may have been the problem and not the beds. That night I stuffed a blanket under the mattress to restore equilibrium to the bed and to my mind. It seemed to work. 

I kept getting sloping beds but finally concluded that it was indeed a condition I had tarting out on the Camino. I accepted this burden but had to give some consideration to what would happen when I got back home. I could put a book under the two legs on my side of the bed thus giving me the impression of being on a level base. The only problem I saw was that Brenda would fall out her side. If she could also develop the condition then all would be well. What is the condition could effect people differently, what if her version effected her in the opposite way to me the her slope would be opposite to mine. I suppose she could sleep with her head at the base of the bed, that might overcome this problem. I hoped that there were not other strange conditions I could develop on the Camino. 

Clearly too much time to think : )

The Squeaky Shoulder symptoms:
I don't remember when the Squeaky Shoulder symptoms first came to my attention. I think it was so gradual that it had become a significant issue before I started to try and find the cause.

While walking I noticed a squeak coming from my left shoulder. If I stopped the noise stopped. I looked back to see if there was someone walking behind me. I checked around me to see it there was something hanging from a tree or bush and blowing in the gentle breeze which had just started to blow. I could see nothing out the ordinary so I resumed walking and with that the squeak also resumed. I stopped moving my arm as I walked and the noise stopped. It could not be my arm because the sound was more like metal on metal. I though about my backpack but all the fittings and fasteners contain no exposed metal. I though about the contents of my backpack so I stopped and opened up every compartment examining the contents, nothing that could make this noise. 

After many days of trying to find the source of the squeak, without success, I resigned myself to the fact that it was my own left shoulder and I would have to just tolerate this new Camion 'companion'.

My fears were realised, here was another condition on top of the Sloping Bed to challenge my sanity, or what was left of it. I decided that I would bundle these and any other unusual symptoms and refer to them as the Camino Syndrome.   : )
Note: The Camino Syndrome and all associated conditions disappeared once I got home. : )

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