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| Jack and Antoinette |
I woke early, showered and got ready for my trip to Fisterra. I had considered getting a taxi to the Bus Station where I was going to meet with Ger. I started to walk and decided to keep going on foot because the road were almost at a standstill with the early morning traffic. I arrived at the station at about 8:30am, met with Ger and purchased my return ticket. Waiting at the platform we met Antoinette and Charity. The ride to Fisterra was uneventful but the scenery was spectacular. The coach was hugging the coastline most of the time giving us great views of rugged coast as well as ships, boats and yachts at sea. Once in Fisterra we went to a cafe and ordered coffee while we waited for our bacon and eggs. The order took about 30minutes to arrive but we were hungry so cancelling the order never entered our heads.
We set off along the road towards the Lighthouse, a 3.5Klm uphill hike. After what we had been through over the last month the walk was really easy. It was a cool day but at least the rain held off. Ger and I took photos along the way. I have written an account of what happened next under the Topic: Tom but I will reproduce it here.
I walked the 3.5 kilometres from Fisterra to the lighthouse with Ger. We took a few photos before I picked the spot where I would descend to perform my own little ceremony. Ger and then Antoinette both, very kindly, offered to accompany me in case I needed support. I declined because I wanted this to be a private moment and I did not wish them to see me if I became emotional. I know, silly man, afraid to show any weakness.
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| Jack at zero Kilometers |
This would be my final farewell to him although he will always be in my heart and never out of my mind. Well what actually happened may amuse you because it is being told to you by a non believer. I have my own thoughts on what happened, others put a different perspective on it.
I descended through the rocks behind the lighthouse until I felt I could go no further without putting myself at risk of being injured. I found a large boulder with some rocks at the base forming a neat hearth where other had previously burnt offerings or objects from their Camino journey in personal ceremonies be they religious or otherwise. I had Tom's hair in an envelope and planned to light the envelope. My way of parting with Tom. The wind was very strong so I crouched down to shelter myself from the wind. I was there for maybe twenty minutes but I best I could manage was a tiny flicker from the lighter, a new one. I adjusted the amount of fuel several times but there was no change. When I did get a tiny glimmer going on the paper it quickly expired. I finally gave up on the envelope thinking it was maybe damp. I took my brother's hair in my hand and tried to ignite it but nothing happened. I eventually realised this was not going to happen as I planned it, like so much of the my Camino experience. So, I placed the envelope under the rocks and I took Tom's hair in my left hand. I stood with this enormous boulder to my left and strand by tiny strand I release them into the swirling wind. It felt like the right thing to do and I was glad that I had not succeeded with my original plan.
I stood in silence for a moment and felt elated and a great sense of well being. I started back up towards the lighthouse. When I arrived back at the base of the lighthouse Ger was there to meet me. He gave me a big hub : ) I told him what happened with the lighter and how I was forced to changed my plans and released Tom's hair into the swirling updraught coming up the side of the slopes. I took the lighter from my pocket to demonstrate to Ger how it had, thankfully, let me down. I lit up immediately I pressed it the first time, the second time the third time........................
I went to the end of the Earth with my brother, in my heart, after he passed on. Tom, I wish I had tried harder and gone to the end of the earth for you while you were still alive. Please forgive me for not trying harder. It's not like I feel any sense of guilt about his death or that I will carry regrets with me forever. We all make choices about our own lives and sometimes we have to accept and respect the choices others make about how they wish to live. Tom made my Camino experience special. He gave it real meaning for me. He was an amazing individual and loved by so many. The outpouring of love for him after his death was some comfort to all his family. He is still in my heart and I think about him every day.
We walked back to Fisterra, had a quick drink and boarded the 3pm bus for Santiago. Well if the outward journey was uneventful the homeward journey to Santiago was not without it's troubles, at least for some. A few souls, if I may be permitted to use the term for the purposes of this story, were very ill on the way back to Santiago. It started with one passenger requesting the driver to pull over so they could deposit the lunch, they had eaten earlier, on the side of thee road. The poor individual had to stay close to the door because the vomiting had not been fully excised from her body. After my experiences over the past few days I had great sympathy for this young woman. I wish I could say the same for a few of the other passengers who were mumbling complaints because we had to stop a couple of times and there was a smell of vomit. I did fear a hysterical response to this which is not uncommon , so when a second passenger requested we stop I began to fear the worse. One young woman asked the driver to stop because she needed to pee, urgently. The poor girl had to squat at the side of the bus to relieve herself. I think us guys got a much better deal when it came to that piece of equipment.
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| Julie, Ger, Ann, Ciaran, Jack and Lilly |
The plan was to meet back at a bar/restaurant for 8pm. I spent a bit of time trying to find the place but still got there on time. Ger had just arrived ahead of me. We ordered a beer and sat at a table just inside the door. We were joined by Ann and Ciaran as planned and then to my surprise Julie and Lilly joined us. I was delighted to see them because I had not had an opportunity to say goodbye the last time we met.
Then it struck. Deli Belly was back with a vengeance. I had to leave the table several time in response to the call of nature but it was doing so in a very unnatural way. I had to keep apologising for my speedy exits and absence from the table. I think Ger explained my dilemma. I had been looking forward to a good last night with these great people but my gut had other ideas. The food was great by the way. I tough I should mention that. At the end of the meal Julie and Lilly left after saying farewell to everyone. I think they were gong to walk to Fisterra the following morning. I had to leave promptly behind them, missing the session Ger had lined up with another group of Irish lads. I raced back to the hotel to avoid any embarrassing disasters.
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| Jack and Lilly |
At this point I was becoming a little concerned that I had not had these symptoms for several days with some respite yesterday and earlier today. I would have googled it had I not been limited to a small phone rather than my usual iPad , Laptop or Desktop. It then occurred to me that I should check the contents of the chocolate I had eaten when I got back from Fisterra. I retrieved the wrapper from the waste basket. Well there it was, the chocolate bar was produced for diabetics and there was a warning on the back, excessive consumption will create laxative effect. I had my answer. I had eaten the whole bar and over stimulated my bowel. I may have messed up a good night out with the guys but at least I was consoled by the fact that I was OK otherwise.
I packed my bags. Updated my notes including an account of the chocolate episode and climbed into bed. I watched another Spanish movie.
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Other Links, relating to this section of the Camino, you may wish to follow
Images of Santiago on the internet
Wikipedia on Santiago
Fisterra:
Images of Fisterra on the internet
Wikipedia on Fisterra
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